If wine itself can seem somewhat intimidating, boutique wine stores can seem positively uninviting and not-for-the-regualar-person-ish. But as the wine world continues to change, and people continue to search out value and accessibility, so too does the concept of the wine store itself. And nowhere is this more apparent than at my favorite wine store in Chicago, Que Syrah Fine Wines (3726 N. Southport Ave).
Que Syrah turns nine this August and was started by three neighborhood partners at a time, and this is somewhat hard to picture considering the number now, when there weren't a lot of small establishments that focused solely on wine. From day one, they have been catering toward smaller producers and wines that one doesn't see everywhere. And as Don Hupp, manager of Que Syrah puts it, "We believe in good people as much as we do good wine. There's a lot of good wine, but we generally like to have a story behind each wine and know and believe in who's making the wine."
The spirit of those words is felt when you walk through the door of the shop. A lot of wine stores can have a feel of class and elegance, but rarely does one achieve what Que Syrah achieves: warmth. Maybe it's the brightness of the store itself or the colorful artisan glassware that's for sale. There's a certain level of comfort that is felt from moment one. Friendly people, inviting atmosphere, and unique wines, complete with approachable, thorough write-ups accompanying many of the wines.
The store features many events, from regular Saturday free wine tastings to sommelier led events focusing on specific regions, just to name a couple.
"We've done fairly ambitious ones over the years," says Hupp, "Everything from pre-Prohibition type grapes to the food pairings which is probably my favorite because we look at wine as a grocery more than a luxury."
His favorite of the food pairings? Barbecue and wine.
"It's two strong bold flavors that can come together...There's a lot of amazing pairings that can happen there. I like when everybody finds a wine they like, but when they actually get a pairing of a wine they might not be so sure of like a Spatlese Riesling or something with pulled pork or a Texas sausage, you can see the smile. That's one of the things I enjoy the most."
Hupp has been with the store from the beginning and has been witness to many changes and trends within the wine world. The 2004 film Sideways changed the way people bought wine, with sales of Pinot Noir increasing and those of Merlot decreasing. Hupp calls this the "single biggest impact, in terms of what media has done". With the increasing influence of social media and the Internet, he describes how wine has been "demystified" and the positive consequences of this:
"There's not as much skulduggery or that type of mysticism around wine. It's much more approachable to younger people, which is awesome.
The single biggest trend he witnesses on a day to day basis though is consumers looking for good value wine for under $20. But as you browse the shelves for that value wine, Hupp says you shouldn't be shocked by alternative packaging like tetra paks and boxes, another trend that he is starting to notice.
"It's really smart. We've finally gotten over the screw cap stigmatism that it's cheap, awful wine, but it's just better for the wine. As technology improves, there's going to be something more practical than a wine bottle. I hate to get rid of the romantic side of it, but you know, the tetra pak is lighter, it holds a liter, it's easier to open. It makes sense in a lot of ways."
And though box wines have been the butt of many a sophisticated wine drinker's jokes, Hupp has this to say about them:
"If the producers will finally start putting good juice in there, I'll start carrying it. I have two on there that I believe in now. If you're going to have a glass of wine everyday and not want to throw out a bottle, that's the best way to do it."
But fear not, traditionalists, as Hupp puts it, even though this is a trend that, "we will continue to see grow in our lifetime," he states, "There will always be corks and there will always be bottles."
And whether you choose to buy your wine in a box or in a bottle, he points out that there are many regions you can look for on the label to find affordable, good wines.
"You can always find great values in Italy. I think Portugal is not getting as much respect as they should...They're producing amazing wines and deserve to be looked at a little more carefully.."
He also points out that one can find great values in reds and whites from Spain, as well, but the real value is south of the border.
"South America is really where it's really at right now in terms of high quality and drinkability," he says pointing out both Argentinian Malbec and Chilean wines, the latter of which Que Syrah will be featuring in an upcoming event.
I can't say enough good things about Que Syrah. It's the type of store that, undoubtedly, a wine connoisseur will enjoy, but is extremely well-suited to the needs of a wine newbie, as well, with its helpful staff and useful information. And to those fresh entrants into the wonderful world of wine, who might be feeling a little uncertain and unsure, Don Hupp has this advice:
"With the Internet and the availability of wine, you should just try as much wine as you can and arm yourself with a few words to explain what you like. I think the days of snooty-tooty wine shops, not wanting to sell anybody a $13 bottle are over because we all realize there's really good wine at any price. Don't be shy...If you do go online, read a book, or take a class, just be able to arm yourself with a couple of adjectives. That's really all you need to find wines you like. Don't be scared."
And to those who still might come into Que Syrah feeling nervous because of their newness to wines or whatever the reason may be, the staff wants you to know that there's no need to worry.
"We just like to get over that, if you're drinking wine you're a friend of ours. It makes you closer to us than somebody drinking beer or not drinking at all. I don't care if it's Yellow Tail or whatever that you're drinking because eventually you'll find us and find out that you want something different or better...You have to start somewhere. We all do."
Start and/or continue the great journey into the wine world at Que Syrah Fine Wines. 3726 N. Southport Avenue, Chicago. Que Syrah is open seven days a week. For hours, upcoming events, and to sign up with their newsletter, go to:
quesyrahwine.com
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